Paris is famous for its covered passages—elegant, glass-roofed shopping arcades that first appeared in the late 18th century. Built through or between buildings and protected from the weather by glass ceilings, these passages once catered to affluent shoppers who wanted to stroll and browse regardless of rain or shine. By around 1850 there were more than 150 such arcades, most concentrated on the Right Bank where Paris’s wealthiest residents lived. Many were destroyed during Haussmann’s 19th-century remaking of the city and by the rise of the grands magasins, which centralized shopping under one roof. Today, roughly 25 historic passages remain, open for visitors to explore.
I’ve never deliberately hunted these arcades; I prefer to discover them by accident. When you notice the narrow entrance of a passage, it feels like opening a small surprise: the interior is always a delight. Some passages now house antique dealers and stamp collectors, while others serve visitors with souvenir stalls and crêpe stands.
My favorite is the Passage du Grand Cerf, tucked off the usual tourist routes in Paris’ 2nd arrondissement. It connects rue Saint-Denis with the lively Montorgueil neighborhood. I first stumbled on it in 2009 while returning to an apartment nearby. Opened in 1825 on the site of the former Hôtel du Grand Cerf, which closed after the French Revolution, the passage fell into decline by the late 19th century as its merchants struggled to make a living. A century later it was restored and today it stands as, in my view, one of the most beautiful passages in Paris. Its narrow, three-story profile and soaring glass ceiling create an elegant, almost stately atmosphere. At night the interior lighting transforms it into something reminiscent of a private mansion’s glassed-in courtyard.
What really draws me back, though, are the small designer boutiques and jewelry shops lining the passage. They sell distinctive, high-quality items at reasonable prices, and I always walk away with a little souvenir pour moi. The passage is only 117 meters (383 feet) long, but it’s easy to spend hours moving from one shop to the next, spotting new finds and noting changes since your last visit.
On my most recent visit the passage was dressed for the holidays: a red carpet covered the tiled floor and long strings of lights highlighted the height of the interior, making the whole arcade glow with a festive, magical air. The following photos and shop highlights follow a walk from the western entrance at Rue Dussoubs and Rue Marie-Stuart toward Rue Saint-Denis.
- RickShaw
Antique, vintage and imported objects
RickShaw curates an eclectic mix of antiques, vintage finds and imported pieces. The shop feels like a treasure trove, packed with furniture and smaller curiosities. If you can’t take a large piece home, the smaller decorative items—vintage hooks, painted doorknobs or textiles—make memorable keepsakes.
- Satellite
Intricate, bohemian-inspired jewelry
Founded by a globe-trotting couple, Satellite combines exotic materials and stones into bohemian jewelry with delicate, detailed designs. Their pieces have a handcrafted feel that suits both everyday wear and travel souvenirs.
Photo (c) Satellite.
- Eric et Lydie
Vintage-inspired jewelry
Eric et Lydie gained notice after being discovered by designer Christian Lacroix. Their jewelry has a feminine, nostalgic quality that evokes vintage charm.
- Pour vos beaux yeux
Vintage and collectible eyewear
This boutique is run by an optician who specializes in never-worn vintage frames. The shop sources authentic eyewear from the 1950s and beyond and can fit prescription lenses, offering a true vintage alternative to modern reproductions.
Photo (c) Pour vos beaux yeux.
- Dear
Jewelry, bags and accessories
Dear stocks distinctive bracelets, necklaces and accessories from Paris designers. They often adjust jewelry on the spot and present products in a charming, vintage-inspired display.
- Cécile Boccara
Textile jewelry
Cécile Boccara’s colorful, lightweight designs are a highlight of the passage. Her silk-covered baubles, silk flowers and delicate textile pieces have attracted attention from major fashion houses. Many visitors find a piece here and keep wearing it for years.
- As’Art, L’Afrique d’Est en Ouest
Handcrafted African creations
As’Art offers colorful, contemporary pieces made by African artisans. The shop emphasizes sustainable materials and fair pay, moving beyond the typical masks and carvings found in many souvenir shops.
- L’Illustre Boutique
Paper goods and prints
This small shop sells paper products, home items and original prints featuring the work of young contemporary illustrators—an inviting place to begin an art collection or find a unique gift.
- De Marseilles et d’ailleurs
French soaps and beauty products
A fragrant stop for Marseille soaps and other classic French beauty items. The scent alone is worth lingering for.
- Messages du Grand Cerf
Fresh flowers
A charming florist whose bouquets make the passage feel even more inviting—perfect for a spontaneous gift or to brighten a hotel room.
Photo (c) Messages du Grand Cerf.
- Café Le Pas Sage
1, Passage du Grand Cerf (at Rue Saint-Denis)
This cheekily named café—literally “the not well behaved café”—sits where the refined atmosphere of the passage meets the neon-lit stretch of Rue Saint-Denis. Despite the street’s reputation as a red-light area at night, the café itself is hip and welcoming, with a simple, inventive bistro menu and a few outdoor tables that are perfect for a drink after shopping.
Where to Find Passage du Grand Cerf
Passage du Grand Cerf links rue Dussoubs and Rue Saint-Denis in Paris’ 2nd arrondissement. It’s convenient by metro—etienne Marcel (line 4) and Réaumur-Sébastopol (lines 3 and 4) are the closest stops. The entrance nearest these stations is on Rue Saint-Denis; step inside and you’ll quickly forget the neon signs outside as you wander beneath the glass ceiling.
Map (c) Passage du Grand Cerf.
Related Links:
- See more pictures of Passage du Grand Cerf (stunning daylight photography showcases the passage’s architecture)
- Official Website of Passage du Grand Cerf
- Paris’ Top 10 Hidden Shopping Passages (The Guardian)
- Making a Pilgrimage to Cathedrals of Commerce (The New York Times)